28 April 2011

The Art of a Line Dry


The roof must be my favorite place in the house. From the roof of Sor Eusebia one can enjoy a view of the city on one side and a view of the countryside on the other side. Sun, wind and the sky are also in abundant supply up on the roof. But the best thing about this roof is the laundry. As opposed to dreading the task of doing laundry, hanging laundry up on the roof gives one a chance to gain perspective.

Yes, obviously I have seen a line a line dry before. I am simply in aw of the view of the city and all the elements. Now it's clear to me that this luxurious method to tend to your cloths. On the roof one feel the wind, take in the cool air, and infuse cloths with the warmth of the sun. All this in while doing a "chore". Not to mention with the view one can reorient ones mind to others in the world.

Freshly ruffled by the wind, line dried cloth are lively and fragrant.

20 April 2011

Center of Sevilla, Monday; Semana Santa

A paso is a procession displaying figures of Jesus and Mary in an elaborate manner. They are constructed by different hermandades (which are like fraternities for different churches in Sevilla). The pasos have candles and flowers. The men in the hermandades carry the pasos on their shoulders; many men are needed to carry one paso because they are so big.
Well dress sevillianos line Serpentes, the main street for pasos in Sevilla.

Literately thousands of nazerenos lead the paso.

The crowd quiets as upon the arrival of Jesus and the Virgin.



Here you can see the men's feet who are carrying this paso on their shoulders..

Palm Sunday: Domingo de Ramos


Well dressed for the first procession of the Holy Week


Procession through the barrio; the people are holding olive branches. A cross leads the crowd and the band follows the crowd. Sunday is the only day of the week which the public can participate in the procession.

15 April 2011

And so it begins: Semana Santa

Of all my first time encounters in Sevilla I can only recall a couple people who didn’t ask me straight away if I knew about Semana Santa (Holy Week). In fact, the first night I arrived here I was asked this question, told to prepare for the event, and taught the history of Semana Santa, all in the span of a thirty-minute conversion. At the first sight of spring sevillianos have an extra hop in their step with knowledge that the “sacred” week grows closer.

Two months before Semana Santa: Incense fill the air on the streets, homes, and in schools. During the week, a group of kids play drums in the hall after the recreation hour. Sunday at a neighborhood school, Sevilla’s most respected band named "Banda el Sol," along with other well-known bands, perform the music of Semana Santa.

One month before: Children construct mini-pasos in class. Chairs are placed in the center of Sevilla to be purchased at high prices. These chairs are used during the processions so people can comfortably view the pasos.

Two weeks before: Torrijas (bread fried and soaked in honey) are eaten to celebrate the coming of Pascua (Easter). People gleam with excitement for the much anticipated week of vacation and fiesta.

One week before: At school kids handout cards of pasos for which they or their parents are associated. Also at school, an exhibition room displays the different virgins, Jesus, and apparel for the penitents and narzarenos for the upcoming pasos. On the weekend, people flock to churches to view the recently completed pasos which are now ready for procession. After viewing the pasos on Sunday, the people fill the center of Sevilla and spend hours talking in cafes.

Less than one week: Entering the school today I walk through a cloud of smoke from the incense. A procession of drums and horns passes me in the hall. The boys in the procession disregard the fact that class is in full course. A class sings the traditional song La Saeta of Semana Santa, written by the sevilliano poet Antonio Machado. To resume the school week is a presentation called el pregon; for this children play instruments, women belt out traditional music, and others speak on the significance of the week. The completion of the presentation marks the beginning vacation for students and celebration of Semana Santa for all.

This a week is set aside for reflection on the passage of Jesus. Yet, the question left lingering is: How "sacred" is Semana Santa?

10 April 2011

Primavera en Sevilla

Spring in Sevilla has captured my heart. Take a look at the life in these photos.

A tree old enough to shade the 17th century sevilliano painter Esteban Murillo when he worked in this park.

Discovering the tierra.

Margaritas, for Miss Margaret today on her 21st birthday.

The outskirts of the city.


This last picture is a welcome home gift I found upon arriving home from Madrid.

With the arrival of spring in Sevilla also comes the much anticipated weeks of fiesta for semana santa (Holy Week) and the feria de abril (fair). Stay tuned for a post on semana santa.