And so it begins: Semana Santa

Of all my first time encounters in Sevilla I can only recall a couple people who didn’t ask me straight away if I knew about Semana Santa (Holy Week). In fact, the first night I arrived here I was asked this question, told to prepare for the event, and taught the history of Semana Santa, all in the span of a thirty-minute conversion. At the first sight of spring sevillianos have an extra hop in their step with knowledge that the “sacred” week grows closer.

Two months before Semana Santa: Incense fill the air on the streets, homes, and in schools. During the week, a group of kids play drums in the hall after the recreation hour. Sunday at a neighborhood school, Sevilla’s most respected band named "Banda el Sol," along with other well-known bands, perform the music of Semana Santa.

One month before: Children construct mini-pasos in class. Chairs are placed in the center of Sevilla to be purchased at high prices. These chairs are used during the processions so people can comfortably view the pasos.

Two weeks before: Torrijas (bread fried and soaked in honey) are eaten to celebrate the coming of Pascua (Easter). People gleam with excitement for the much anticipated week of vacation and fiesta.

One week before: At school kids handout cards of pasos for which they or their parents are associated. Also at school, an exhibition room displays the different virgins, Jesus, and apparel for the penitents and narzarenos for the upcoming pasos. On the weekend, people flock to churches to view the recently completed pasos which are now ready for procession. After viewing the pasos on Sunday, the people fill the center of Sevilla and spend hours talking in cafes.

Less than one week: Entering the school today I walk through a cloud of smoke from the incense. A procession of drums and horns passes me in the hall. The boys in the procession disregard the fact that class is in full course. A class sings the traditional song La Saeta of Semana Santa, written by the sevilliano poet Antonio Machado. To resume the school week is a presentation called el pregon; for this children play instruments, women belt out traditional music, and others speak on the significance of the week. The completion of the presentation marks the beginning vacation for students and celebration of Semana Santa for all.

This a week is set aside for reflection on the passage of Jesus. Yet, the question left lingering is: How "sacred" is Semana Santa?